General brioche knitting tips
Brioche works best on loose-fitting
garments that require ease. Because
brioche stitches create a very lofty
fabric, it is advisable to go down
a needle size or two when making
brioche to somewhat control its ‘give’.
Brioche knitting uses more yarn than, say, stockinette stitch - up to twice as much.
100% NON-superwash wool works best when making brioche because it wants to stick to itself and won’t allow the fabric to stretch so much. Slippery yarns have a tendency to ‘grow’ either lengthwise of widthwise, as can be true with most knitting stitches. Adding selvedge stitches not only creates a pretty edge but also a firm one.
When washing a brioche garment, the stretching can become a problem because of the weight of the absorbed water. I squeeze out as much water as I can, wrap it in a thick dry towel, wrap this in several layers of newspaper and tread on it to get out as much water as possible without stretching out the garment. Then I ease the garment back into its original shape to let it dry flat.
Measuring gauge
Measuring a brioche sample for a stitch guage is tricky. The larger the sample, of course, the more secure your measurements will be. Block it lightly to relax the yarn. Lay the sample on a flat surface and measure it with a flat ruler. Remember that each knit loop you count in a knit column is actually two worked rows - in one row the stitch is worked and in the following row it is not worked but slipped. Note that a normal brioche gauge will have few stitches and lots of rows.
In my patterns, the ‘yo’ does not count alone as a st, unless otherwise indicated. |
Counting rows
Each row is basically worked twice,
half of the stitches are worked in one
row and the other half (the stitches
that were slipped in the former row)
are worked in the following row. If you
only count the “knit column” stitches
you have to double the number for the
actual correct number of rows worked.
When I write brioche instructions I count only the knit stitches going up a knit column on the RS, therefore when I say “20 rows” I am counting 20 knit column stitches when actually 40 rows of knitting have been worked.
Casting on and binding off
Keep in mind that, given the elasticity of brioche, you should cast on and bind off very loosely. For adequate ease and looseness, when using a long-tail cast on, cast onto two needles held together or a needle larger than the one with which you plan to knit the rest of the piece. Of course, after casting on, pull out one needle to continue.
After casting on, it takes 8-10 worked
rows before pattern can be recognized.
Correcting mistakes
I have been ‘brioching’ for years and still find the stitch difficult to ‘read’ especially where increases and decreases or more than one color have been used. If you make a mistake in the middle of a row, don’t tear out the entire row at once; instead, return one stitch at a time. If the mistake lies a few rows down, rip out all the rows until one row above the mistake. From there, rip out stitch by stitch. You will be picking up normal looking stitches as well as stitches with yarnovers. It also helps to pick up the stitches onto a smaller needle. This will make the stitches easier to pick up and you can work off of this needle, onto your original needle, for one row.
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